10/6/2008
Bad Habits
– Puppy Biting…Barking…My dog rolls in… My
dog eats his poop! YUK!!!
Breeder
Questions - How can I find a
companion Brittany breeder? I can't find a puppy! How do I interview
a breeder? Am I ready for a puppy? What about Rescue Brittanys?
Selecting a Breeder? Contracts? Deposits?
Health and
Fitness - Heat Stroke.
Dog Foods, which are best for my dog? Tail docking? Potty Training?
Hunting Questions - My dog creeps in on point. What can I do?
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What is the difference between the American
Brittany and the French Brittany?
The French
Brittany is smaller in stature; more heavily bodied and is allowed to have black
on its coat and/or nose. The black and white French Brittany is acceptable as is
the orange/white with black nose and mouth pigmentation. The French Brittany
should have a "square stature" and the French discounts a long nose, as they
believe it smacks of setter influence. The French Brittany is seen in Brittany
Field Trials occasionally as well as hunt tests; however, it is not recognized
by the ABC (American Brittany Club). The earliest
record of importation of a Brittany to America was recorded in 1912. In the
1930's two people began in earnest to try to establish the Brittany Spaniel here
in America, with the first show appearance being at the Westminster in the
1930's (as a French Brittany). The 40's are when the American Brittany actually
began to be developed. The French Brittany however, continued to be imported in
earnest through the 60's. Many of the French
Brittanys that were brought to America were of top quality field/show dogs to
begin with and were shown/field trialed with great success as well as just
hunted. So, the American Brittany is a refinement of the French Brittany. Orange
and White coloration's along with Liver and White and Roans became popular. Less
and less importations of French Brittanys occurred due to the development of the
American Brittany. The French
Brittany is bred to be a close working, quartering, biddable dog
due to the terrain in France. The Americans of the 40's, 50's, 60's hunted
wide-open terrain and therefore a very close working dog fell into disfavor
among Americans. Hence breeding began for the bigger running American Brittany.
It was developed out of hunter preference (paraphrased
information from "The Book of the American
Brittany," Eighties Edition.) "The Americans preferred the lighter
bodied, longer legged dogs, built to run and cover the wider fields available in
<our> country." The French Brittany has begun to generate much more interest in the 80's and 90's. This is because American hunting grounds began to degenerate in size due to highways, smaller fields, and less game. Many Americans today hunt this marginal cover and prefer a biddable close working Brittany. The first
Brittany Field Trial was in 1939. This was a trial of French Brittanys, as the
American Brittany hadn't been developed. The American Brittany club was formed
in 1942. The American
Brittany was developed to cover the open terrain of American hunting grounds.
Early pioneers in the breeding of Brittanys used Select French Brittanys that
possessed a big run. This was a natural evolution for the American Brittany. An
ideal Brittany should have a natural point, honor, retrieve, tender mouth, and
gentle disposition. The Brittany should be biddable and affectionate, with a
keen sense of smell. There is one
truism in relation to ANY bird dog. "You can always reel a big running dog
in through training, but you can't send a genetically close working dog out in
big terrain." What should I look for in a Breeder? How much? A reputable breeder stands behind their dogs. They will offer a written contract with written guarantees against genetic defects, communicable diseases, hunting ability, etc. A reputable
breeder will put your desires first and help match puppy personality with that
of the adopting family. They will offer unlimited advice and support regarding
the puppy you adopted. They will have registered the pup's litter with at least
AKC and sometimes other registries such as the FDSB (field dog studbook). They
will have given the puppy it's first shots, done prophylactic worming, had
dewclaws removed, and tail docking (if required for your breed) done. They will
have had the parents examined for good hips, eyes, elbows, and general
soundness. They will have a PLAN for the breeding. In other words, they matched
the sire and dam for specific reasons that help to further the breed and enhance
it's performance. How much does a pup cost from a reputable breeder? Brittanys average 400 to 800 dollars. Yes you can find cheaper dogs, but you probably aren't getting a pup from a planned breeding with written guarantees and a reputable breeder as we've described above. If you want to save money and take a chance, start looking the newspapers and you might find a BYB (backyard breeder) with a 'cheap' pup. Beware the cheap pup! Cheap is only cheap if the dog is exactly what you were looking for and doesn't need expensive Vet care. Don't let the price scare you. Most reputable breeders will allow payments. Since reputable breeders have a backlog of folks waiting for pups (if they don't, why?!), a reputable breeders' pup should be affordable as you will have time to save your money. Do I need to talk to several breeders? How do I interview a breeder? We strongly recommend you shop around for breeders and compare notes. A good place to start is our puppy web page. Look at it, read it carefully. Use our standards as a 'go-by' for other breeders if you like what we have to offer. If you want more or less from a breeder than what we offer, write that down as a question to ask. Develop a full range of questions to ask each and every breeder. Be consistent in that you ask each breeder the same line of questions. When you call a breeder be informative/polite, inquisitive, and quiet. What do I mean? Informative/polite: Start by introducing yourself politely and telling the breeder that you have done your research on different breeds (do this before calling a breeder!) and that your dog will be primarily a _____(companion, gun dog, show dog, trial dog, family dog, etc.). This will save the breeder his/her breath and your time if they don't want to sell a dog to you for your purposes. Example: We only sell to companion families that will hunt with their dogs. It's important that you understand that a reputable breeder is selective about whom they sell their dogs to. It's not like going to a retail store and telling the owner that you'll "take your business elsewhere" or "that's too much money". A reputable breeder has a waiting list for his/her dogs and won't give in to such pressures. A reputable breeder knows that it's a lifetime venture between you, your new dog, and them. Therefore, they are selective about who they enter into a 10 to 15 year agreement with. Most breeders will interview you formally or indirectly. They may ask for references, drivers license number, etc. so be prepared. Inquisitive: Have the breeder explain their breeding program to you in their own words. Let them finish before asking your questions. A reputable breeder has a lot to say about their program and shouldn't be at a loss of words. They should be friendly and offer you all the references in the world. Don't be afraid to call references! Don't 'lead' them with leading questions since an untrustworthy person will tell you just what you want to hear. Quiet: In the interview, listen carefully and take notes. I think I am ready for pup-how do I know? Are you really ready for a puppy now? Do you have a safe place for your new companion? Can you afford Vet expenses? Do you have a fenced-in yard and will you 'baby proof' your house if it is to be a house dog? Do you have young infant children in the home and if so can you handle another baby (pups need as much attention)? Are there any circumstances that will cause a problem with dog ownership such as neighborhood/city/county restrictions? I could ask a ton more questions but hopefully this will get you to thinking. Why can't I find a puppy right now? We don't want to wait. When should I start looking for a Breeder? As mentioned above, reputable breeders have a waiting list. If they don't, you need to wonder why! Allow 6 to 12 months on average for a pup from a reputable breeder. If the breeder has an abundance of pups, beware! Most breeders will require a deposit on the pup and the industry standard is that the deposit is non-refundable....why? Because the breeder has to be a business person unfortunately. The deposit you place is more accurately termed 'Surety of Action' which means exactly what it says. It's similar to putting down a deposit on a home, if you back out, you forfeit your deposit. Several breeder books back this position such as 'Breeding A Litter' (Harris). Sometimes your extenuating circumstances may help the breeder decide to return your deposit or delay delivery (at your request) . Ask breeders about deposits up front so you are not surprised. Your breeder has turned away other folks for the pup you reserved as well as all the work involved with switching order of pick, AKC paperwork, etc. So BEFORE you place a deposit, BE SURE YOU HAVE DONE ALL OF YOUR HOMEWORK! If you did do your homework with regard to picking a breeder, you undoubtedly already have a good relationship with your breeder. One refund you will never get is if you find another litter you like that will be delivered sooner. It's unfair to the breeder who has invested so much time in you to make sure you are the right owner. Make sure you are willing to WAIT! Get an advanced copy of the contract. Period. How do I pick the best pup for hunting? We've heard of a lot of ways to pick. Everything from hiding a quail in your pocket to putting out a can of sardines to see which pup finds it first. It's a crapshoot at best when picking a puppy. The only thing that puts the odds in your favor is to get the pup from proven parents and a reputable breeder. As far as secrets for picking a pup, there isn't one. If we knew, we would not have sold some of the best Brittanys we've ever seen hunting. Any breeder who likes to compete will honestly tell you that if they had a surefire method, they would keep the best and go to the Nationals every year. An old breeders
adage is 'Pick the litter' NOT 'pick of the litter'. Pick of the litter
offers you choice of color pattern/personality at time of picking. It
doesn't guarantee you the best dog. I've seen the last pick end as the
best family gun dog out of the whole litter not just once but many times! What is the best pointing dog pup for me? It depends on how the dog will fit into your life style. Some breeds do best when loved and cared for as a house companion as well as a hunting dog. The Brittany and others fit that description while other breeds, such as the Pointer, do just fine living life in a kennel. Consider the
personality/physical/intended uses for any breed you are looking at. Don't
go by your neighbors dog as representing the breed standard...research,
research, research! I just want a pet and have no
intentions to hunt my future Brittany. How can I find a Breeder who will sell me
a "Companion Only" Brittany? We recommend that you contact the American Brittany Club Breeder Referral Person. Currently, the breeder referral person is Velma Tiedman. She can be reached at (402) 339-5537. She provides a free service for families seeking American Brittany Breeders. Just tell her that you want a companion only Brittany and what state you reside in. She will give you a list of breeders nearest you.
We admire families who rescue any breed/mixed breed dog. We rescue Brittanys in our area and adopt them out to caring families who know what to expect from Brittanys in general. There are a few things we'd like to offer in the way of advice to the giver or the adopting family. For the receiving family:
Rescue: Click one of the following links and visit
the Brittany rescue: National Brittany Rescue and Adoption Network Families giving away a Brittany: Sometimes you feel that you prepared yourself adequately only to find that the active Brittany needs more exercise than you can offer. Maybe the Brittany has bad habits that your family can't seem to control, or, it came down with a serious health condition you can't afford to treat but you don't have the heart to put the Brittany down to eternal rest. Whatever the cause, you now have a Brittany to give away. Here are some tips: CALL YOUR BREEDER FIRST! You may have a 'first right of refusal' clause in your contact which you MUST legally offer the dog back to the breeder first (WE DO!). Even if you don't have that in your contract, CALL YOUR BREEDER FIRST! If your breeder declines the dog then:
Rescue:
I just got my puppy and want to know about vaccinations, training, etc.? We are a member of Purina's Pro Club and have a set of general guidelines. Click here to read them. Use your 'back' button to return to this page. |
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I've been told that if I spay/neuter my dog
that it won't hunt as well and will get fat. Is this true?
It will in no way, anyhow, under
any circumstances, change his ability to hunt,
period. That is an
old wives tale (maybe old hunter tale?) that just won't die. Usually assumptions
are made that are not really attributable to the spay/neutering. An example is
that the dog is forced trained at an early age to hunt and at about the same
time is spayed/neutered. The resulting shortened range is due to the early force
training, not the spaying /neutering. The only legitimate concern we've seen is weight gain and sometimes hair growth changes, which if you think about it, makes sense. Hormones are reduced and some things will change. Less active (not to be confused with less active in the field), same diet, more weight... Simply adjust the diet appropriately if needed. Sometimes hair growth patterns change. We've seen some dogs go from a medium coat to a more wiry texture or other texture...not sure how that happens but other breeders have noticed similar results...this doesn't always happen but can. We do believe that neutering a male too soon (before age 2) will alter his growth so that he does not mature physically as he ordinarily would have. If you delay in neutering for that reason, be a responsible owner and do not let your male wander around impregnating females. Should I worry about hip dysplasia?
No, unless you are
getting a pup from a questionable breeder. Make sure the Breeder has x-rayed the
breeding stock and that they guarantee the pups against genetic defects,
including hip dysplasia. Getting a dog without a guarantee is asking for trouble. What about hip dysplasia? Hip Dysplasia is genetic in the Brittany breed much the same way some diseases are specific to certain human races. It will never be gotten rid of completely even among the most conscientious of breeders. A breeder that x-rays their breeding stock to check for sound hips will help lower the incidence of hip dysplasia but it is still possible to have a puppy with defective hips even though the parents hips are sound. OFA is a voluntary organization that certifies canine hips to be poor, fair, good, or excellent based on x-rays of the dog submitted by the breeders Veterinarian. Because dysplasia is found in the Brittany breed, OFA certified parents are NOT a guarantee that your puppy will be free of dysplasia even though the puppies parents may have OFA excellent hips. Some breeders/web sites will lead you to believe that OFA is the supreme certification and because their sire/dam are OFA certified, all their pups will be free of hip dysplasia, THEY ARE MISLEADING YOU! Read the current stats for the Brittany reported from www.offa.org Because OFA is voluntary, there are more breeders who do not participate than there are that do participate, therefore the statistics reported are severely skewed. What you should know is that if the breeder is reputable, they will have x-rayed their breeding stock and offer full guarantees for health! Also, the incidence of getting a dysplastic puppy is lower if the breeder has several generations of x-rayed stock with sound hips as we do here at Chief's Brittanys. Why do Brittany breeders dock the tail and remove the dewclaws? The tail is docked because it protects against cuts/scrapes/punctures from briars and thorny vegetation. Tails have been known to freeze/suffer painful frostbite and even break off in severe cold. I have seen, many times, long tailed dogs with 1/3 of the tail bloody/raw from wagging it in and near thorny vegetation. So from a hunting standpoint, docking is practical. Why put your dog through this? Dewclaws are
removed because they serve no function and have been known to be ripped or torn
traumatically when the dog is hunting in heavy vegetation. They also can become
ingrown since they are easy to forget at nail trimming time. It costs the
breeder more up front to have the Veterinarian dock the tail and remove the
dewclaws, but if it is to be done, it is recommended that it be done in the
first 3 days after birth. It much less traumatic in the first 3 days since the
nervous system isn't fully developed and there are very few complications. What is the best dog food for my pup? We have tried several of the top brands on the market. We experienced dogs eating feces and other weight/coat problems with various dog foods. We kept coming back to Nestle´- Purina. Purina has a huge R & D (research and development) program and makes quality food. Purina's Pro Plan formulas (available from dealers and Vets), O.N.E. formulas (available from retail outlets), Hi-Pro, Lamb & Rice Dog Chow, and Chicken/Beef flavored Puppy Chow are our favorites. We use different Purina foods for different reasons. Examples: Puppy Chow/O.N.E./Pro Plan puppy foods are best for pups and pregnant females, while various Dog Chow formulas make good off-season foods for your hunting buddy. We sometimes feed Fit and Trim to dogs that need to be on a diet and Senior formulas for older dogs. Nestle´ Purina has an entire family of dog foods, well funded on sound R&D. I'm sure they have one that will fit your dogs needs. Visit Purina's web
site at: http://www.purina.com/ (We are not paid to endorse Purina, we use
Purina foods because they are quality dog foods).
What makes cheaper foods from reputable
companies any different, other than price, than the expensive foods from the
same company? I’m confused because
Dog Chow is much less expensive than Pro Plan.
The
difference is the primary ingredients.
There are two primary substances found in dog foods:
The substance is either Grain-based or Meat/Meal-based.
Grain based means the number one ingredient is a grain such as corn. Meat-based means that the foods number one ingredient is
meat such as lamb, beef, or chicken.
Meat is not the same as bone MEAL, chicken by-products, etc. Purina 'Chow' brands are grain-based food while Purina Pro Plan/O.N.E. are meat-based food. Grain based Purina foods still provide optimum nutrition, however, the proportions may need to be larger and you will notice that the dogs stool tends to be loose and sometimes messy (always have dogs with runny stools tested for worms and other disorders!). A
meat-based food, not to be confused with a bone meal based food or a by-products
food, provides more nutrition per ounce thus smaller portions will meet the same
demand as larger portions of grain based foods.
Also, meat based foods tend to render dark firm stools which makes it
easier on you to keep your yard free of waste.
Dog Chow averages about 16 dollars per 50 pounds while Pro Plan, which is
available from your Vet or Purina co-op dealer, averages about 30 dollars per 40
pounds. One bit of info about protein percentages: High protein foods may not be formulated properly to actually deliver that percentage. For instance, a food with an advertised 27 percent protein, whose primary protein source is chicken by-products, may not deliver 27 percent because the primary protein ingredient is a by-product, which is mostly comprised of ground up chicken beaks/feathers/feces. These sources of protein are, of course, not digestible and thus will not deliver the advertised protein level. If the primary advertised ingredient of a food is meat, you can usually bet it will deliver the protein that is essential for muscles, especially active sporting dogs. Some formulas made by others such as Eukanuba, etc. use beet pulp as filler and source of fiber or other actions. Purina formulas do not use such fillers. If your dog's hair is dry, unmanageable, etc. it's the food. You should NOT need supplemental formulas for your dog's coat to be nice and sleek. If you have to do that, you should consider another dog food. What can I do to protect my pup should it get lost? Is there more than an ordinary dog collar?
What is a microchip and how does the microchip work?
How long does the microchip last?
I just got my puppy and want to know about vaccinations, training, etc. We are a member of Purina's Pro Club and have a set of general guidelines. Click here to read them. Use your 'back' button to return to this page. Should I give my dog its shots?
That depends on you. Because giving immunization shots regularly is important,
it should be done correctly. If you think you have what it takes to give your
own shots, a good catalog resource is "Dr.
Foster and Smith." Their catalog offers vaccines at a reasonable price and
they have an article in each catalog that discusses the proper way to give the
shots. Our recommendation is that if you only have one or two dogs, its best to
just let the Vet do it. The Vet must give some shots such as the rabies
vaccination. How do I potty train? This is sort of like what you learned in college about training mice to flip a switch for a reward. You may remember Pavlov did experiments with dogs and bells at meal time. He found that the dog would actually start to salivate when it heard the bell after it was conditioned to it! I've had Brittanys learn in as little as three days to ring the bell to go potty, but the average is about a couple of weeks for those who aren't so consistent in their training. No matter how the bell gets rung, take him out. This is a good project on a Friday evening after work. That way, by Sunday, you've had two good full days of training. Again, teach everyone in the house what to do and be consistent. We recently
trained Sarah, our newest puppy, with the bell. We started Friday morning
and took her out every 30 minutes as described above. When she came in, we
would reward her with a small tasty treat. On Saturday, went half a day
letting her out every 45 minutes then went to every hour. On Sunday were
letter her out about every hour and a half. Sunday afternoon she rang the
bell independently!!!!!! We ran to let her out praised her verbally and
when she came in, she was looking at us for the treat! She was a little
inconsistent for a few more days but after one week had it down solid....no more
accidents!!!!! My dog has ______ disease. What should I do?
First things
first, get a second opinion! If you are near any major metropolitan area, Vets
are available in different specialties just like people doctors. If you are sure
that your Vet is right, do some research to ensure your dog gets the quality
care it deserves. My dog has a terminal illness, what do I do?
If you are sure
about the disease being terminal, use compassion when considering whether to use
euthanasia or not. A good rule of thumb that we use: Are we prolonging the life
of the dog for us or can my dog actually continue to live a quality life? My dog lives a sedentary life.
What can I do to help keep him in shape? There are a number of things you can do to keep your dog in shape. Here are a few ideas: 1. Take your dog for a walk twice a day. - 2. Use a dog walking service. A large number of metropolitan areas offer them. - 3. Get your dog a treadmill. It's true that you can teach your dog to use a treadmill, so we've heard. Without going into it too far, we've heard that it can be done with a special harness rig. - 4. Do you bicycle? If so, and your dog knows how to heel, you can find a device that hooks directly to your bicycle for 'roading' your dog. It is spring loaded so a jerk from the dog shouldn't cause a crash. We've never tried it so you're on your own. - 5. If your dog loves to play fetch, do it outdoors and really let your pet stretch out in to a full run to fetch. Also, Diet! We like to use Purina's Fit and Trim to help us get a dog in shape. My dog gets overheated in the field easily. Should I worry? Click here! |
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1. My Brittany is a digger! What can I do? Brittanys are notorious diggers. We always tell people this up
front just in case they have some prize geraniums or such ;-). They dig from
boredom and to cool themselves in the summer (They will sprawl out on the 2. My Brittany is a chewer! What can I do? As you have found, Brittany's are big time chewers, especially if bored. It seems that once they find a particular object that is tasty (?) they go for it at any chance. We have found that the best chews on the market are beef basted or smoked dried hooves. They are all natural (calf hooves), don't look too bad, and do have an odor only when being actively chewed. We buy them by the box full out of Foster & Smith or New England Serum catalogs. Brittanys will walk through mountains of chew toys to get to a smoked hoof! At first pup will not know what to do with it, but in about 5 minutes of chewing a hoof, they are hooked. Hooves outlast all other chews about 10 to 1 (except for something like the nylabone which all of my Brittanys are rather indifferent to). Lastly, baby proof your house. Brittanys are like babies and will get into things they shouldn't. This is part of the compromise for having a happy, active Brittany in the house. Also, Don't trust her with anything even after corrective measures! It's like dogs that love to dig in trash; taking away the temptation is worth a pound of cure. Good luck. 3.What can I do to keep my
Brittany from barking all the time in the house, in its crate, etc? We take a clean, chemical free, spray bottle and fill it with clean water. Adjust the nozzle to spray mist not stream. When pup starts to bark and whine, pick up your bottle which is loaded and nearby, tell pup NO!, and spray a mist into his face. It doesn't hurt the pup and is a "soft" way to correct. Each additional bark/whine must be met with another spray and the corrective NO! Be consistent and
teach everyone in the home how to do it. You'll be making several trips at first
so hide around the corner from his kennel. On the first successive bark, come
out of hiding with a NO! And spray the mist in his face. Trust me, even water
loving Brittanys don't like mist in their face and it does not harm their love
for a good swim. Dogs don't think that complex. It's only the bottle and mist
that makes them reluctant to bark. After correcting pup, place the bottle in
full view of him. It acts as a non-verbal deterrent when he is in his kennel. One final note on this technique: Use your judgment. He may be whining because he has to go potty. If so, reward with a trip to potty. Make sure he does his potty before returning indoors. If barking during your absence from home is a problem, read on! Outdoor problem barking causing problems with neighbors? There are a number of solutions.
Personally, I would invest in a quality (not a cheap) no-bark collar.
I would put it on her every night and take it off every morning as most no-bark
collar manufacturers recommend that you not leave it on for more than 12 hours
at a time. If barking in your
absence is a problem, then you will have to put it on the dog every time you
leave. You can find no-bark collars here Dr. Foster and Smith 4.
My Brittany rolls in feces, dead animals and other disgusting things.
What can I do? We've read that this is a trait that originates from way back when dogs were responsible for finding their own food. It is thought that dogs roll in dead animals and such to mask their own smell so their prey won't smell them coming. It seems to a strong trait in hunting dogs and unfortunately, it is difficult/impossible to stop. Our dogs know we don't like it, but they choose to do it anyway. When we correct them, they stop - reluctantly. When we're not looking, they're in to it again. This is a common
question with multiple remedies. We pop him on the nose Another way is to use a rolled up newspaper and smack his bottom and say NO! Now the do-gooders out there might say NO to that but dogs learn through pack mentality inherited thousands of years ago. In a pack, a dog that steps out of line gets nipped or worse to put it back in line. Yet another way is to spray a mist of clean water in his face and say NO! You get the idea. If you've tried the less aggressive methods (redirection of chewing and so forth) you must step up the punishment one notch, but not too harsh as he is just a puppy. MOST of all, be consistent. Always redirect
his biting to his favorite chew toy such as rawhides/knuckle
6. My dog eats his poop!
Yuk!!!
I agree that it is very disgusting.
What you are describing is called ‘Coprophagy’, eating feces.
There are a number of products out there that fix this. The products work by making the stool taste terrible yet it
is harmless to the dog otherwise.
One is called ‘For-bid’; another is called ‘Dis-taste’. You can get it at most pet stores or order it on-line at
Dr’s Foster and Smith A cheap
alternative is to get some Lowry’s meat tenderizer. Sprinkle it on the dogs’ food everyday similar to the
For-Bid and Dis-taste products. Let me make one more suggestion. If you have two or more dogs, you have to put it on all the dogs food so that it ALL tastes bad to your stool eater. YUKKK!!!
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Should I train myself? I have no experience.
You will derive
a LOT more satisfaction doing it yourself. Brittanys are a forgiving breed so
even if you make a few minor mistakes, they will retrain readily. This is
possible because Brittanys love to please their owner. I recommend WOLTERS Gun
Dog.
Order Wolters Gundog Today! Want to browse through similar books? Click on the following link! Click here to visit our Gundog Book and Video store in association with Amazon.com. He has a solid
approach. Just remember to go easy and only train 10 minutes a day/session. End
positive and don't forget playtime. Stay away from electronic collars, pinch
collars, choke collars, etc. Brittanys are very soft and you can ruin them with
one of those devices. Write any time you have questions. I trained all of my
Brittanys We recommend through repetitive conditioning and they are all great
hunting partners. My dog creeps in on point. What can I do? (Dog busts/chases? Click here) Creeping in on point has to be one of the most popular of questions. First off, pointing is an old instinct thousands of years old. Domestic dog ancestors locate their game, followed by creeping and pouncing. Man (or woman) merely refines that instinct so that the dog will allow us to creep/flush/kill! So you see, the point is actually a refinement of his instincts and is somewhat unnatural for him. The basic problem with creeping is that the dog is not staying on a self-initiated point (whoa) until released and is 'crowding' (creeping up on) the bird - pen raised birds make this problem worse as they do not spook and easily flush wild when a dog crowds them. Your dog should be taught in yard work/field obedience to stay at whoa until released either by gunfire or human command. He should know to stop at first scent and hold. If your dog was trained properly to begin with, then the creeping is usually man made! Assuming the dog was taught 'whoa' correctly, the dog 'unlearned' his training when the hunter shoots at a bird that the dog did not hold absolutely steady. Also, a dog learns to creep and bust if it ever catches a pen-raised bird because the creeping dog is thinking he can catch another. Allowing your dog to catch a bird is a big time no-no. Shooting and/or Killing a bird in which the dog was not absolutely steady (even if it takes just a step or two) is a reward to the dog! Therefore, in the dogs mind, creeping is acceptable. When the dog initially establishes point (gets first scent), it should immediately freeze and point. You should then be able to remind the young green trained dog to stay on point with a gentle 'whoa' command. If the dog takes just one more step and you shoot and/or kill the bird - you just reinforced creeping because in his mind, next time, he might be able to get away with 2 steps. What you should do, when in a hunting situation, when the dog takes a step or two before the bird flushes, is let the bird go and pick up your dog and put it back where it was when he got first scent, whoa him, then walk out front and kick around - then go back to him and release him on to hunt - this shows him he made a mistake and you didn't reward his mistake by shooting and/or killing the bird. But you're thinking "yeah but my bird will flush and I won't get to shoot it"....my response is that "you just have put your dogs training ahead of shooting until he is trained properly." So how do I get him to freeze on first scent? We like to use remote controlled bird launchers (make sure your dog is desensitized to launchers-see my article about bird intro and launcher desensitization by clicking here). We take the dog in perpendicular to the down wind scent cone on a lead or check cord. I like to start at about 50 yards and cross the scent cone left/right moving closer in 5 yard increments so as to cultivate the dogs nose to stop on first scent. It is imperative that you know how to read your dogs body language so that you know when he gets the first infinitesimal amount of scent. When he indicates first scent (flaring nostrils, ears forward, flagging, racing in towards the bird, etc.), launch the bird immediately and say nothing! This is important! You want him to think that he can cause the bird to flush if he moves beyond first scent! Now take him back and set another bird IN A DIFFERENT SPOT! Repeat as above. We are showing him that any bird, anywhere, will flush if he does not freeze immediately. Remember, we are not looking for him to point YET but if he does, good! The first few birds, we are launching the bird the INSTANT he indicates scent with his body language (Such as: flaring nostrils, ears forward, flagging, racing in towards the bird, etc.) Repeat until he gets the idea he must freeze (point) immediately on the slightest amount of scent. Once you are sure he will point, then let him point it and wait a few seconds. If he moves as much as his head, launch the bird again. We want to gradually get the dog to understand that he must point and hold perfectly still on point! If after several days and several lessons, your dog is relentless and keeps trying to bust in and chase the bird, then you should immediately launch the bird and, when he reaches the end of the check cord, check him backwards firmly. Set him up immediately where he was when he caught first scent and tried to run in and bust the bird - command 'whoa' walk out front, kick around as if to flush another bird, walk back and release him to hunt on. Remember to say nothing when you check him. If you've had to check him on several birds and he has now gotten the idea that if he busts the bird, he will be checked, then it is time to let him run freely, dragging the check cord so you can gather him up to make him comply should he challenge the bird. Notice I said 'challenge the bird'. I said this because he is not defying you anymore than he thinks he can actually catch it! Once he is pointing staunchly and still on the lead/check cord, then we reward him with a kill. Why still on the check cord? So we can prevent accidents from happening such as a poor flying bird that he is about to catch without pointing properly! Repeat this exercise until he is locking up on first scent off the check cord and holding for you to launch/kill the bird. Also, a simple reminder to 'whoa' should be all that is needed to remind him to stay at whoa when he stops at first scent. Some young dogs will initiate a point but then break and bust/chase. If this is happening, then gently check/restrain him when he makes his move and remind him to 'whoa'. If that doesn't fix the problem, you may need to go back to whoa training. If your dog is not self-initiating his own point at all and is check cord wise, then you need to Click here for my see my section on busting/chasing. Never whoa your dog into a point. I've covered that in my 'teaching whoa' section on my training web page. And for Pete's sake, don't ever shoot unless the bird was held steady!!! This is one method, I have a couple other methods not described.
My dog doesn't always respond immediately to
a command even if I repeat it over and over again:
The problem you are having is a
common one. Here are some recommendations: My dog won't retrieve absolutely to hand: Then, when pup has
the bird in his mouth, we command, "come, heel" while slowly walking away from
him. If he has the heel command down solid, he will come along and walk beside
you at heel without thinking. Then, Simply reach down (while slowly walking) and
take the bird from his mouth while commanding, "drop" or "give". Praise
excitedly. There are other
options not discussed that are best done by a Pro. My Dog shies away from live
birds when hunting:
What do Brittanys hunt?
Brittanys are known best for their
happy personality and natural abilities to hunt upland game and retrieve. They
make good waterfowl dogs too! (See next question) Do Brittanys make good waterfowl dogs as
well? Yes!
American Brittanys were bred from French Brittany Spaniels, have webbed toes and
love the water. They are strong swimmers. While they were not bred for very
cold-water temperatures, a well-made neoprene vest helps to equal the playing
field. A goose is a tall order for a Brittany, but duck and other small fowl are
easy pickin's, pardon the pun. Is there a different approach to training
based on the breed?
Mostly yes. Most
Brittanys are "soft." Soft means that the pup is easily intimidated, frightened,
or has a timid personality. Harsh training methods can ruin the soft dog
mentally and cause pup to never realize it's full potential afield. A lot of
Pointers and some German breeds tend to be "harder" in personality. Should I train myself? I have no experience.
You will derive
a LOT more satisfaction doing it yourself. Brittanys are a forgiving breed so
even if you make a few minor mistakes, they will retrain readily. This is
possible because Brittanys love to please their owner. I recommend WOLTERS Gun
Dog.
Order Wolters Gundog Today! Want to browse through similar books? Click on the following link! Click here to visit our Gundog Book and Video store in association with Amazon.com. He has a solid
approach. Just remember to go easy and only train 10 minutes a day/session. End
positive and don't forget playtime. Stay away from electronic collars, pinch
collars, choke collars, etc. Brittanys are very soft and you can ruin them with
one of those devices. Write any time you have questions. I trained all of my
Brittanys We recommend through repetitive conditioning and they are all great
hunting partners. What age is appropriate to start exploring
with pup?
Take pup out on outdoor
jaunts frequently, starting as soon as pup is weaned if weather permits. Take
pup to a safe place (away from roads and rogue dogs) and let pup learn what a
tree is, how to jump over a log, what a creek is, etc. Don't take a small pup to
dense brush areas to explore, save those areas for pup when he has some height
and weight behind him. You want it to be pleasurable. Take treats and clean
water with you. Take frequent breaks and don't overdo it. End the jaunt while
pup is still vigorous and wanting more. Finding wild game birds is a bonus. This
builds desire. What age do I start teaching commands?
We strongly
recommend that pup not be required to do anything other than come to his name
and understand what "no" is at less than 6 months. Of course, do outdoor
exploring as described above. This is especially true of the softer, slower
maturing breeds. Don't get caught up doing too much too soon. You purchased a
quality pup because you wanted to bond and enjoy years of hunting/companionship.
Do not rush training. The personality of the dog will be a good clue as to how
soon you can start (Is it birdy, already flash pointing, retrieving, bold
personality, etc.).
What do they
mean when they say "steady to flush/wing/wing & shot"?
These terms are
often interchanged and confusing to the novice trainer. Here's a brief
explanation: Steady until flush: Dog
breaks point immediately upon the bird flushing. Pros:
Dog gets to downed bird quickly. Cons:
Low flying birds are a hazard to this dog since the dog will be in full chase.
Many bird dogs have been shot inadvertently because of this. The owner is
usually not the culprit, but rather an invited guest gunning over your dog. Steady to wing:
Dogs breaks at the shot instead of the flush. Pros:
Dog safety! And the dog doesn't learn bad habits by catching pen-raised birds
found on shooting preserves. A dog that catches a bird before the shot is a big
training problem! Cons:
Dog gets to the bird later than if he had broke at flush. Steady to wing and shot:
Dog does not break point, ever, unless released by the handler. Pros:
This is a completely trained dog and is beautiful in action. This dog will not
steal the other dogs' point/retrieve because he is completely steady. This dog
will not perform "delayed chase" (chasing the flushed bird wherever it may fly).
This dog hunts absolutely to the hunter. This dog does not "catwalk" and is
absolutely steady, therefore, will not flush any birds sitting tight that did
not flush with the main covey. Cons:
Running birds cause the handler to have to
relocate the dog over and over. Cripples may get away by seeking shelter in
dense cover (although this is not always a big problem if the dog will
trail/track its wounded prey). My recommendation is that the dog should be steady to wing as a minimum for safety purposes. Click here to return to whoa training if you arrived here from that page. I know people who have hunted over
4-month-old dogs so why should I wait?
We have
seen pups that folks have pushed too early – the pups were ruined.
Also, a mistake made with a young puppy is more indelible in the mind of
a pup than a mistake made with a more mature dog. Another problem is
that the dog may lose a potentially independent big run (big run is subjective)
and intensity. If you aren't interested in a big run, then go ahead if the dog's
personality allows it. Just remember, too much too soon can affect it mentally
and take away some boldness and intensity. There are exceptions to every rule,
but why take a chance after you have invested so much time and money in
obtaining a quality pup from proven parents?
This dog is going to be with you for the next 12 to 16 years, what’s the
rush? Birds for training? Where do I get them,
what do I use...
Most folks start pups out on pigeons. That's what
we use for several reasons. First, they are easy to trap or purchase. Second,
pigeons are strong flyers and can get away from the chasing pup (You never want
pup to catch a bird!). Third, pigeons smell similar to game birds (Yes, they are
game in some cultures. Ever heard of Squab?) And have a very similar scent to
other game birds. Fourth, they return to roost and can be used easily over and
over, thus they are economical. My pup is 8 months old and isn't birdy.
Should I get another dog?
NO! Some of the best
bird dogs we've ever seen matured later. We strongly recommend that you give a
well pedigreed pup from proven hunting lines up to two years before making any
final decisions. Reputable breeders of slower maturing breeds will verify our
position on this issue. My pup was given its first bird last week and it ran from the bird! Is my dog defective? If the dog is from proven lines then the answer is probably NO! Go to our dedication page about Missy. At 5 months 3 weeks, she ran away frightened. We waited one week at which point she pointed staunchly, intensely, and went on to become one of the greatest Brittany bird dogs we've ever owned. She defeated 26 dogs in a major field trial stake. The write up from the American Field is posted on her dedication page. Missy What are the effects of harsh training on a
soft dog?
You want your dog to be
bold in the field and to perform with intensity. A dog that is trained too
harshly will perform in a "mechanical fashion," looking for the handlers every
command so that it doesn't get punished anymore. It will often cower when the
handler approaches. We teach through positive reinforcement and lots of
repetition. This makes for a happier dog and makes the process less stressful on
the dog (and you). There are a few times when you will have to get tough, but
why not start out the positive way? The dog just may surprise you and train
quickly and easily. Some don't but it is true bragging rights when you
accomplished your training through positive reinforcement. What is harsh training?
Any training that inflicts great pain (mental/physical) in order to get the
dog to succumb to the desires of the trainer. Is the electronic collar considered harsh?
Yes and no.
Yes if you are using high stimulation levels and no if you are using very
low levels that do not hurt. This
is a personal decision you must make. I must admit that the
new collars have such low stimulation levels that you can't feel them though the
dog can. Do you use the electronic collar and if so, what kind? We teach yard work and fieldwork through repetition with an ordinary dog collar and dog leash. If we need to reinforce a command that is being ignored off the check cord, yes. Also, we use the collar to 'snake condition' dogs. We like the D.T. systems humane collars with 'vibration'. Use Only as an adjunct tool and not a primary tool to train. Contact us if you are interested in D.T. products. When do you use the electronic collar?
We do
not use the
electric collar for routine, repetitive conditioning type training.
Instead, we use an ordinary leash with an ordinary dog collar. We do use the
e-collar at very low stimulation levels on Brittanys to reinforce commands off
the lead/check cord and other training circumstances where the collar is more
advantageous. Should I use the electronic collar?
We do
not recommend
that a novice use an electronic collar!
If you feel that your dog would benefit from the use of an electronic
collar, go to a PRO! A pro can give you a clinic on the proper use of a collar
and can demonstrate the proper use of one on your dog. We
recommend you go to a Pro that specializes in Brittanys such as us and we will
show you how to use it.. How do I prevent the dog from getting "wise"
to the check cord?
Repetitive training
and enforce every command even if it means running the dog down, picking it up,
and carrying it to the point where it disobeyed. Repetition cannot be emphasized
enough. Never, Never, let your dog get away with even one disobedient behavior.
Every time you put your dog down to train or hunt, you teach something good or
bad. Correct performance is more important than bagging a bird. How do I shorten my Brittanys hunting range?
We've always
shortened the run by using whoa when the dog gets out of our comfort zone/range.
Of course the dog must be trained to whoa immediately when asked (see our
training tips). Our training goes
like this: Hunt the dog and when he gets out of our comfort range, command
"whoa!" We take our time about getting up to him, then release him. Repeat until
he gets the idea that when he gets out ever so far, he's gonna have to stop and
wait. Most dogs will smarten up right away and check frequent enough to stay in
range.
Open Letter about
a new pup and what it should be doing at an early age.
Re: good idea?
Sure that's o.k. However, it's The best way to
cultivate the point is the use of strong flying birds used with a bird Return to FAQ categories | Return to the Puppy page | Return Home | Return to "Training Tips"
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